Le 27 février 2025, par Urbanitas.fr. Temps de lecture : deux minutes.
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Fashion Week de Milan 2025 : l’industrie du luxe face à une crise profonde
Événement international de haute couture au Royaume-Uni
La Fashion Week de Milan 2025 s’est ouverte dans un contexte économique difficile pour l’industrie du luxe, avec des marques emblématiques comme Gucci qui font face à d’importantes difficultés. Malgré la morosité ambiante, l’événement propose 153 manifestations dont 53 défilés jusqu’à dimanche.
La Fashion Week de Milan a débuté mardi 25 février 2025 dans un climat de crise pour le secteur du luxe, qui cherche à redynamiser le marché avec ses collections femmes Automne/Hiver 2025-2026.
Gucci, marque phare du groupe français Kering, a ouvert cette « semaine de la mode » italienne, alors même qu’elle symbolise les difficultés actuelles du secteur. Le groupe a récemment annoncé un effondrement de son bénéfice 2024, avec une chute de 23 % des ventes de Gucci. Le départ imprévu de son directeur artistique, le Napolitain Sabato de Sarno, le 6 février, deux semaines avant le défilé, a ajouté à la confusion.
C’est donc le studio de création de la maison florentine qui a présenté la collection intitulée « Continuum », s’appuyant sur l’héritage de la marque avec des silhouettes inspirées de différentes époques, des années 1960 au maximalisme - esthétique de l’excès - récent. Les nombreuses expérimentations sur les tissus ont mêlé classicisme et subversion, avec une gamme de couleurs n’hésitant pas à user du vert, du brun, de teintes de gris ou du mauve.
Carlo Capasa, président de la Chambre nationale de la mode italienne (Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana), a appelé à « répondre à la complexité du moment » par « la créativité, le pragmatisme et la flexibilité » caractéristiques du Made in Italy. Il a également réclamé des « politiques de soutien » gouvernementales pour aider la filière.
Les chiffres confirment cette situation préoccupante : selon une analyse de Bain & Company, seul un tiers des marques de luxe ont connu la croissance en 2024. Le secteur de la mode italienne a enregistré un chiffre d’affaires d’environ 96 milliards d’euros en 2024, en baisse de 5,3 % par rapport à l’année précédente.
Malgré ce contexte morose, Milan accueille près de 153 événements jusqu’à dimanche, dont 53 défilés. Parmi les moments forts figurent le centenaire de Fendi avec un défilé mixte dirigé par Silvia Venturini Fendi, directrice artistique par intérim, ainsi que les anniversaires de DSquared (30 ans) et Kway (60 ans).
Les grandes maisons comme Prada, Giorgio Armani, Versace, Max Mara, Ferragamo et Dolce&Gabbana seront présentes, tandis que Bottega Veneta a reporté à septembre le premier défilé de sa nouvelle directrice artistique Louise Trotter, proposant à la place un événement samedi soir dans son nouveau siège milanais.
Urbanitas.fr
Quiz sur la Fashion Week de Milan
Propriétaire de Gucci. — Quel groupe français de luxe est le propriétaire de la marque Gucci, qui a connu une baisse drastique de 23% de ses ventes en 2024 ?
A. LVMH. — B. Kering. — C. Hermès.
Kering
Directeur artistique de Gucci. — Quel directeur artistique a quitté Gucci le 6 février 2025, après seulement deux ans de service et à 20 jours du défilé de la Fashion Week de Milan ?
A. Alessandro Michele. — B. Sabato de Sarno. — C. Matthieu Blazy.
Sabato de Sarno
Chiffre d’affaires de la mode italienne. — Quel a été le chiffre d’affaires approximatif du secteur de la mode italienne en 2024, incluant les lunettes, les bijoux et la beauté ?
A. 125 milliards d’euros. — B. 96 milliards d’euros. — C. 75 milliards d’euros.
96 milliards d’euros
Évolution du marché du luxe. — D’après une analyse du cabinet Bain & Company en janvier 2025, quelle proportion des marques de luxe a connu une croissance en 2024 ?
A. Deux tiers. — B. Un tiers. — C. La moitié.
Un tiers
Anniversaire de maison de mode. — Quelle maison de mode célèbre son centenaire lors de la Fashion Week de Milan 2025 avec un défilé anniversaire mixte sous la direction de Silvia Venturini Fendi ?
A. Versace. — B. Fendi. — C. Prada.
Fendi
Glossaire sur la Fashion Week de Milan
Fashion Week : Événement majeur de l’industrie de la mode organisé dans les grandes capitales mondiales où les marques présentent leurs collections saisonnières à travers des défilés.
Collection Automne/Hiver : Ensemble de créations vestimentaires conçues pour la saison froide, traditionnellement présentées plusieurs mois à l’avance.
Directeur artistique : Personne responsable de la vision créative d’une marque de mode, qui définit les lignes directrices esthétiques des collections.
Studio de création : Équipe de designers travaillant sous la direction du directeur artistique pour concevoir les collections d’une maison de mode.
Made in Italy : Label désignant les produits conçus et fabriqués en Italie, symbole de qualité et de savoir-faire dans l’industrie de la mode.
Chambre nationale de la mode italienne : Organisation qui régit l’industrie de la mode en Italie et organise la Fashion Week de Milan.
Défilé mixte : Présentation qui combine des vêtements pour hommes et pour femmes dans un même événement.
Chaîne d’approvisionnement : Ensemble des processus impliqués dans la production et la distribution des produits de mode, de la matière première au produit fini.
Secteur du luxe : Segment haut de gamme de l’industrie de la mode, caractérisé par des produits de haute qualité, exclusifs et généralement à prix élevés.
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